Trade education and workforce development are two initiatives we value highly here at Dunn Lumber, so it should come as no surprise that we have close ties with Seattle Central College's Wood Technology Center (WTC). With roots dating back to the early 1900s, WTC's history intersects with ours at Dunn Lumber at various points (our very own Ed Dunn Jr. took some classes at Edison), and we're proud to be connected with such an exemplary educational institution.
Throughout the episodes in this series, we'll be speaking with Dave Borgatti, a long-time faculty member at the WTC, about the center's history, program offering, and various topics in woodworking education. Dave got his start in woodworking as a boat builder in Portland, Oregon, for Schooner Creek Boat Works, and ended up at WTC as an instructor in 1992. Since then, Dave has helped countless students—from boat builders to carpenters and cabinetmakers—learn the woodworking craft.
Wood routers are incredibly versatile. Though commonly used for cabinetry, they can cut all sorts of grooves, slots, holes, decorative edges, and more, all while creating a smooth, finished product, even on hard materials. In today’s conversation, Dave covers the three basic types of routers and what they’re used for. Watch the video above or keep reading for a detailed recap.
What is a wood router?
A wood router is essentially a drill with no handle and a motor that turns at very high speed (up to 30,000 RPM). The bits are held in a conical chuck and the base of the router is situated 90º to the workpiece. Thanks to its speed, it leaves a polished cut in wood and other materials, including solid surface composites and laminates.
Originally developed in the early 1900s, wood routers quickly became a handy and popular tool since they made it possible for one person to do the same amount of work that it used to take a whole team of craftsmen.
Different types of routers in woodworking
There are several types of wood routers, including overhead routers and those installed in router tables, but today we’re focusing on the three standard portable types of routers in woodworking.
Fixed-based router
The most common type of wood router is a fixed-based router. You can raise and lower the router to change the cut depth, and then lock the base so it doesn’t move. Fixed-based routers work best for projects where you need the depth of cut to stay the same.
Plunge-based router
A plunge-based router is similar to a fixed-based router, except instead of fixing or locking the depth of cut, you press down on the tool to plunge the bit into the material you’re cutting. Plunge-based routers are great for inlay work, like for hardwood floors. You can often buy fixed-based and plunge-based routers together as a bundle with two different bases and one motor.
Trim router
Trim routers (sometimes called laminate trimmers) are a smaller version of the standard fixed-based router. While larger fixed- and plunge-based routers come with two different sizes—½” and ¼”—of collets (the band that tightens around the bit to keep it in place), trim routers can only fit ¼” bits. Even though they hold smaller bits than the other types of routers, they’re particularly easy to maneuver and are good for edge forming and flush trimming.
Common uses for routers
There are so many uses for wood routers. Most carpenters use routers for edge forming. In joinery, routers make creating a rabbet joint (an L-shaped cut at the edge or end of a board) or a dovetail joint (an interlocking V-shaped joint) easy. They’re also often used for CNC (computer numerically controlled) machine work to cut out parts and create shapes from a CAD drawing. If you’re just getting started and looking for which wood router to buy, you can often find kits that include one motor and two interchangeable bases—a fixed-base and a plunge-base—giving you more convenience and versatility than when buying a single router.
How to install and remove a router bit
Watch how Dave installs a router bit starting at 11:30 in the video. To install a router bit in a fixed-based router:
- Start by removing the base and placing the motor on its side.
- Choose a router bit and collet of the same size, and place the collet into the router.
- Insert the router bit into the collet all the way in until it can’t go any further, then gently pull it out ⅛” and tighten the bit by hand. You want to insert bits this way in all routers. If you push the bit all the way in and then begin tightening it, it will actually work its way out of the tool.
- With the router still on its side, use two wrenches to finish tightening the bit clockwise as you look at the router from the top.
- Once it’s snug, you can put the base back on and lock it in place.
Watch how Dave removes a router bit starting at 13:17 in the video. To remove a router bit:
- Remove the base.
- Use two wrenches again, this time turning them in the opposite (counterclockwise) direction.
Note that sometimes a bit gets stuck after it has been used hard, but if you tap on the collet nut, the router bit will come out easily. Do not tap on the router bit as the carbide is brittle and will shatter.
Wood routers and safety
When it comes to safely using wood routers, there are two major points to keep in mind. First, it’s important to wait until the router comes to a complete stop after switching it off before picking it up and moving it so the bit isn’t still spinning and could potentially cut something. It can take up to 10 seconds for the router to fully stop once you turn the switch off.
Second, some routers have an intelligent switch, but most routers just have a toggle or rocker switch. Because of this, it’s easy when moving the router, putting it away, or getting it ready to use, for the switch to be clicked on without you realizing it. Then, when you plug in the machine, it will immediately turn on and torque, which can be dangerous, especially depending on where the machine is. If it’s on the edge of a table, it could go crashing down. If it’s already on the project you’re working on, it could cut the material. On a related note, you don’t want to turn on this tool when the router bit is against the wood. Instead, turn it on and then move it to where you want to begin cutting.
As with any woodworking power tool, it’s also important to wear proper ear and eye protection. Routers are very loud, and the chips come off the bit at higher speeds than a drill motor.
Now you know a bit more about wood routers and what they’re used for, but there is a second element to wood routers that significantly affects how they work—the router bits. We’ll cover what you need to know about wood router bits in our next video. In the meantime, check out other posts from our Wood Technology Series.